Kumano Kodo: Along the Paths of Emperors, Mystics, and Bands of Rōnin on Japan’s Camino de Santiago
The Trail of a Thousand Years of History
Walking the paths of the Kumano Kodo, it is easy to forget the modern world. A soft mist envelops the dense forest of cryptomeria trees, their crowns pierced by scattered rays of sunlight illuminating moss-covered stones. The air smells of moisture, resin, and earth, and the faint sound of waterfalls echoes in the distance. The narrow path, covered with ancient cobblestones and winding between the trees, seems to lead deep into eternity, where every form of life—from the smallest fern to the towering trees—is an emanation of nature’s harmony. This landscape invites one to uncover the history of a place that, for centuries, has drawn pilgrims, emperors, wandering bands of rōnin, and solitary travelers seeking renewal.
Kumano Kodo is more than just a network of pilgrimage routes—it is a sacred space where Japan’s history and mythology can almost be felt in the air. According to legend, it was here that Emperor Jimmu, guided by the three-legged crow Yatagarasu, found his way to Yamato to become Japan’s first ruler. For over a thousand years, this trail was traversed by Heian emperors, Shugendō monks, and humble peasants. It was a long and arduous road, fraught with danger and spiritual upliftment. Travelers on this path became part of an eternal story, connecting with the past through an act of humility toward the power of nature and the immensity of time.
The Kumano Kodo teaches that spirituality does not have to be tied to religion. It is not the temples or rituals that most move travelers but the journey itself—in silence, among the rustle of trees and birdsong, where every encounter reminds us of life’s transience. The Japanese philosophy of mono no aware—the beauty of impermanence—is keenly, almost painfully, felt here. Let us delve deeper into the history of this ancient trail, a path that continues to attract monks and burnt-out businessmen alike, all searching for that which cannot be seen or heard amidst the chaos of the modern world.
What is the Kumano Kodo Trail?
The Name
Kumano Kodo—熊野古道—these kanji, though seemingly simple, reveal a multi-layered symbolism that reflects the history of this place. 熊 (Kuma), meaning "bear," symbolizes strength, majesty, and the wildness of nature—qualities long attributed to the Kii Mountains. 野 (No), meaning "wild place" or "plain," points to the primal, untamed character of these lands. Finally, 古道 (Kodo), literally "ancient path," refers to the trails that for centuries bore witness to human journeys—both physical and spiritual. Together, these characters tell the story of a journey into the heart of untamed nature.
The earliest mentions of Kumano appear in Japan’s oldest chronicles—the Kojiki (712 CE) and Nihon Shoki (720 CE). In these mythological texts, the Kumano region is portrayed as a primal space, close to the gods. The mountains, forests, and waterfalls were seen as manifestations of kami, sacred spirits inhabiting the natural world. Kumano was a space where the boundary between the human and the divine blurred, and travelers felt the presence of higher forces with every step along the trail.
The name Kumano evolved over the centuries, gaining new meanings depending on the era and cultural influences. During the Heian period (794–1185), the region gained a reputation as the "Promised Land," where the soul could find redemption and spiritual transformation. This was a time when Buddhism profoundly influenced Japanese culture, and the Kumano trails became a meeting place for Shintō and Buddhist beliefs. Shugendō shamans, practicing strict ascetic rituals, made Kumano the center of their practices, further enriching its mystical character. Thus, the name Kumano Kodo signifies more than just a place—it embodies a state of spirit, a path leading toward harmony with nature and oneself.
Location
The Kumano Kodo, a network of ancient pilgrimage routes, winds through the wild and picturesque landscapes of the Kii Peninsula, located in the southern part of Japan’s main island, Honshu. It spans the areas of three prefectures: Wakayama, Nara, and Mie, leading through landscapes that seem to have remained almost unchanged for millennia. The main routes connect three sacred sites known as the Kumano Sanzan—Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha—forming a triangle of pilgrimage paths and philosophical thought on Japan’s historical map.
The Kii Mountains, through which the Kumano Kodo paths meander, though modest in height, present a genuine challenge for travelers. Their steep slopes are covered with dense cryptomeria forests, creating an almost fairy-tale landscape. These ancient trees, also known as Japanese cedars, can grow over 60 meters tall, their slender trunks soaring skyward in breathtaking grandeur. In many places, the paths cross stone staircases built centuries ago by pilgrims. On rainy days, these stairs become slippery and treacherous, turning the journey into a true test of endurance.
Hidden within these Kii Mountains is Nachi Otaki (那智の滝), Japan’s tallest waterfall, at 133 meters in height. Its roar can be heard from miles away, and the mist rising from the cascading water envelops the nearby Seiganto-ji pagoda, creating an image of perfect harmony between nature and spirituality, while lending the air a refreshingly crisp scent. Beyond waterfalls, the landscape is enriched by terraced rice fields, pebbled seaside beaches, and valleys that explode with vibrant colors during the cherry blossom season.
The Kii Peninsula’s climate, while conducive to lush vegetation, is capricious and demanding. This region is one of the rainiest places in Japan, frequently visited by typhoons, especially between May and October. Thick mists lend the landscape a mystical aura, but the high humidity makes trekking particularly exhausting.
The ecosystems of Kumano Kodo are extraordinarily diverse, making every step along this trail an exploration of a new world. The mountain forests are filled with ferns, mosses, and lichens, with small streams hidden in their shade feeding into larger rivers. In the valleys, bamboo groves and tea fields abound, while in the coastal regions, rocky cliffs and the azure waters of the Pacific draw the eye. Each of these places seems to have a personality of its own.
Paths Through the Ages
Antiquity
In the depths of Japan's prehistory, the Kumano region emerged as a mysterious and almost mystical place—home to many of Japan's earliest myths and legends. According to Kojiki and Nihon Shoki, it was here, in the inaccessible Kii Mountains, that Emperor Jimmu, the future founder of Japan’s imperial dynasty, received guidance from the divine three-legged crow, Yatagarasu. Led by this supernatural creature, believed to embody wisdom, courage, and divine protection, Jimmu guided his troops through dense forests and mountainous trails to ultimately conquer Yamato and establish the imperial lineage.
The Kii Mountains have long been regarded as the dwelling place of numerous kami—the spirits (or gods) of nature. For the shamans and practitioners of Shugendō, a syncretic religion blending elements of Shintō and Buddhism, Kumano was a natural center for spiritual practices. Shugendō, which emerged around the turn of the first millennium, focused on asceticism in nature, where practitioners—known as yamabushi—gained spiritual strength through mountain pilgrimages, meditations in caves and beneath waterfalls, and endurance rituals. The Kii Mountains, with their steep slopes, waterfalls, and enigmatic forests, became the ideal setting for these rigorous practices.
Heian Imperial Paths
During the Heian period (794–1185), Kumano Kodo gained exceptional significance as a pilgrimage route for the aristocracy and the imperial court. Emperors, aristocrats, monks, and bushi (warriors, precursors to the samurai) undertook these arduous journeys not only in search of spiritual enlightenment but also as a symbol of humility before the forces of nature and divinity. One of the most iconic phenomena of the trail’s history was the popularity of the so-called "Ant Pilgrimages"—mass pilgrimages involving hundreds, sometimes thousands of people moving in organized lines, resembling a procession of ants. This imagery inspired the name, documented in texts such as Midō Kanpakuki (御堂関白記), Kagerō Nikki (蜻蛉日記), and the illustrated scrolls Kumano Mandara (熊野曼荼羅).
For the Heian court, a pilgrimage along Kumano’s routes was not only a religious act but also a social and cultural event. Emperors, accompanied by courtiers, monks, servants, and warrior escorts, embarked on multi-week expeditions punctuated by ceremonies of ritual purification in sacred rivers and stops at numerous shrines along the way. One such site was Kumano Nachi Taisha, located beside the Nachi Otaki waterfall. These journeys inspired the literature and poetry of the era, with aristocrats often capturing their spiritual experiences in the form of waka—short, introspective poems, as seen in the works of Fujiwara no Teika or the anthology Shūi Wakashū (拾遺和歌集).
Kumano was regarded as the "Promised Land" (a promise of purification or enlightenment), a place where one could cleanse the body and soul while symbolically traversing the boundary between the mortal realm and the land of the kami. The trek along the steep, stone paths was viewed as a metaphor for life—full of hardships meant to bring spiritual strength. The Kumano Kodo left a lasting impact on how the Japanese perceived nature and cultivated their relationship with it over centuries.
Kamakura (1185–1333): The Samurai Trail
With the end of the Heian era and the rise of samurai rule, Kumano Kodo began to attract a new type of pilgrim. Samurai, seeking spiritual support during turbulent times of war, increasingly ventured onto the trail. During this period, the popularity of Shugendō—the ascetic religious movement born in the Kii Mountains—grew significantly. Yamabushi, the mountain monks, guided pilgrims through the trail’s most challenging sections.
For warriors from clans such as the Minamoto and Hōjō, a pilgrimage through Kumano was an opportunity for purification before battle and a form of penance for shedding blood on the battlefield. Notably, Kumano also played a role in national politics of the time, serving as a venue for diplomatic meetings where samurai forged alliances and negotiated truces.
Sengoku Period (1467–1603): Chaos and Seclusion
During the tumultuous Sengoku period, when Japan was engulfed in civil wars, the popularity of Kumano understandably declined. The era’s conflicts made travel dangerous and challenging. Despite this, Kumano retained its spiritual significance. Warriors who gained control of the region supported the shrines and trails as symbols of their authority and legitimacy.
The spiritual importance of Kumano endured. Shugendō monks, less dependent on political stability, continued to lead pilgrimages, preserving the traditions and sacred sites. Some segments of Kumano Kodo were also used as military roads, making the area a rich archaeological treasure trove for researchers of medieval Japan.
Edo Period (1603–1868): The Renaissance of Pilgrimage
Under the Tokugawa shogunate, a time of relative peace and stability, Kumano Kodo experienced a revival. During the Edo period, the trail’s popularity expanded beyond the aristocracy and samurai, attracting people from all social classes—peasants, artisans, and merchants—seeking spiritual solace and salvation.
The term "Ant Pilgrimages," which had been popular during the Heian period, resurfaced, now describing a different phenomenon—pilgrimages of common folk rather than the imperial court’s entourage. This movement also contributed to economic growth, as inns, teahouses, and service points flourished along the trail, revitalizing the region’s economy.
Meiji Period (1868–1912): Decline and Revival
The modernization of Japan during the Meiji period brought significant changes to Kumano Kodo. The Meiji government, aiming to weaken Buddhism and strengthen Shintō as the state religion, separated Buddhist temples from Shintō shrines (shinbutsu bunri). Many temples in Kumano were converted into purely Shintō sites, altering their original character.
Urbanization and modernization drew people away from traditional religious practices, leading to a decline in pilgrimages. Nonetheless, Kumano’s sacred sites endured as monuments to the past. This era also marked the beginning of documentation and research into the historic trails, laying the groundwork for their eventual revival in the 20th century.
The 20th Century: From Obscurity to UNESCO
In the first half of the 20th century, Kumano Kodo fell into near-oblivion. However, following World War II, with a renewed interest in Japanese tradition and culture, efforts to protect the trail began. During the 1960s and 70s, local organizations and scholars worked to restore the paths and preserve their historical significance.
The turning point came in 2004 when Kumano Kodo was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Since then, the trail has gained popularity among both Japanese and international travelers seeking mystical experiences and breathtaking landscapes.
Today, Kumano Kodo stands as a symbol of Japan’s spiritual heritage. Pilgrims from around the world come to traverse its sacred paths, admire its landscapes, and immerse themselves in a tradition over a thousand years old. The trail continues to serve as a spiritual refuge, offering insight into Japan’s history and a physical challenge for those who walk its ancient routes.
What Can You See on the Kumano Kodo Today?
Kumano Kodo is a place of wonder. Walking along its trails, modern pilgrims can experience the same atmosphere that inspired emperors, monks, and samurai centuries ago. While the world has changed around it, Kumano remains a space where nature, history, and spirituality intertwine in perfect harmony, seemingly untouched by the relentless passage of time.
At the heart of Kumano Kodo are the three grand shrines of Kumano Sanzan: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha. Each of these sacred sites offers a unique experience. Kumano Hongu Taisha, with the largest torii gate in Japan, symbolizes rebirth and new beginnings. Kumano Hayatama Taisha is renowned for its enormous sacred nagi tree, while Kumano Nachi Taisha captivates visitors with the Nachi Otaki waterfall—the tallest waterfall in Japan, considered a physical manifestation of the kami of the region.
As pilgrims traverse the trails, they encounter sacred trees venerated for centuries, stone Jizo statues that protect travelers, and countless torii gates, marking the boundary between the sacred and the mundane. Narrow, ancient stone paths, covered in moss and surrounded by towering cryptomeria trees, continue to guide wanderers through this enchanting landscape.
A Diversity of Routes
Each of Kumano Kodo's routes offers unique challenges and sights.
- Nakahechi: The most popular and historic trail, known as the "imperial route." For centuries, emperors and aristocrats traveled this path from Kyoto to Kumano. Today, it is well-marked and tailored for modern travelers.
- Kohechi: A mountainous route connecting the Buddhist sacred site of Koyasan to Kumano Sanzan. This challenging trail, cutting across high mountain passes, is for seasoned hikers seeking breathtaking views of the Kii Peninsula.
- Iseji: A lesser-known path leading from the Grand Shrine of Ise to Kumano. This route combines coastal landscapes, mountain passes, and historic villages, offering an exceptional variety of experiences.
Additional Attractions
Kumano Kodo is not just about spirituality and history—it also offers opportunities to experience Japanese culture in its most authentic form. Travelers can stay in minshuku (民宿, literally "people's lodging"), traditional guesthouses where hosts serve local delicacies such as fish from nearby rivers, seasonal vegetables, and rice grown on terraced fields. After a day of walking, nothing is more relaxing than a soak in an onsen (hot spring). On the route, onsen like Yunomine Onsen—one of the oldest in Japan—provide perfect respite.
Throughout the year, seasonal festivals bring Kumano Kodo to life. The Nachi Fire Festival, for instance, features 12 massive torches that purify the temple grounds, while the Oto Matsuri is a nocturnal fire festival celebrating the region’s spiritual heritage.
The “Dual Pilgrim” Program
The Dual Pilgrim program is a unique initiative connecting two of the world's most renowned pilgrimage routes: Japan's Kumano Kodo and Spain's Camino de Santiago. Both trails, inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, offer profound spiritual experiences and a glimpse into rich cultural histories. The program was launched in 2014, marking the 10th anniversary of Kumano Kodo’s UNESCO designation, as a celebration of the bond between Japan and Spain. Its aim is to promote pilgrimage as a universal experience that transcends religion and cultural boundaries.
To earn the title of Dual Pilgrim, a pilgrim must complete a route on both Kumano Kodo and Camino de Santiago. Upon finishing both journeys, participants receive a special certificate and the opportunity to have their name recorded in the international Dual Pilgrim registry. In Japan, the certificate ceremony takes place at Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three main Kumano shrines. These ceremonies often feature traditional elements, such as taiko drumming and ritual dances.
The program invites reflection on the shared heritage of humanity. Despite their vast differences, Kumano Kodo and Camino de Santiago share common values: spirituality, the transformative nature of walking, and a deep connection to nature and history. To date, many travelers from around the world have earned the title of Dual Pilgrim, seeking not only adventure but also personal growth and spiritual peace.
Reflections
Kumano Kodo is one of those places that demonstrates how profound spirituality can be, even without being tied to a specific religion. It doesn’t require pilgrims to hold dogmatic beliefs or adhere to a particular faith; instead, it opens the door to experiencing something deeper—a connection to nature, history, and oneself. The Japanese philosophy of mono no aware, which celebrates the beauty of impermanence and change, is deeply embedded in the aesthetic of this trail. The sight of mist rising over the Kii Mountains, the sound of raindrops on cryptomeria leaves, or the gentle rustle of foliage underfoot are moments that remind us of life’s fragility and uniqueness.
The relationship with nature that Kumano Kodo fosters goes beyond admiration for landscapes. The trail is a lesson in harmony with one’s surroundings, echoing concepts like furyu—the elegance of nature visible in the simplicity of the world—and yugen, the hidden beauty that reveals itself in subtle details, such as the interplay of light between trees or the profound silence of the forests. Each step teaches respect—for the environment, for humanity, for life itself.
A journey along Kumano Kodo, like its Spanish counterpart, is ultimately a journey within. The introspection enabled by traversing these ancient paths offers an opportunity to detach from the chaos of modernity. In the meditative rhythm of walking, the traveler finds time to look inward, rediscover peace, and renew their spirit. The physical distance covered becomes a metaphorical distance from one’s former self, as each bend in the path opens a new chapter in the journey of self-discovery.
Kumano Kodo is also a narrative of a thousand years of Japanese history, filled with myths, imperial processions, shamanic rituals, and extraordinary events that have left an indelible mark on the country’s landscape. Even for those who may never embark on this journey, Kumano Kodo reminds us that the true pilgrimage begins within ourselves. Introspection, mindfulness, and harmony with the surrounding world can be found anywhere, if we allow ourselves to pause, listen to the sounds of nature, and look inward with clarity. This is the timeless message of the Japanese trail, one that can accompany us on all the paths we travel.
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未開 ソビエライ
An enthusiast of Asian culture with a deep appreciation for the diverse philosophies of the world. By education, a psychologist and philologist specializing in Korean studies. At heart, a programmer (primarily for Android) and a passionate technology enthusiast, as well as a practitioner of Zen and mono no aware. In moments of tranquility, adheres to a disciplined lifestyle, firmly believing that perseverance, continuous personal growth, and dedication to one's passions are the wisest paths in life. Author of the book "Strong Women of Japan" (>>see more)
Personal motto:
"The most powerful force in the universe is compound interest." - Albert Einstein (probably)
Mike Soray
(aka Michał Sobieraj)
未開 ソビエライ
An enthusiast of Asian culture with a deep appreciation for the diverse philosophies of the world. By education, a psychologist and philologist specializing in Korean studies. At heart, a programmer (primarily for Android) and a passionate technology enthusiast, as well as a practitioner of Zen and mono no aware. In moments of tranquility, adheres to a disciplined lifestyle, firmly believing that perseverance, continuous personal growth, and dedication to one's passions are the wisest paths in life. Author of the book "Strong Women of Japan" (>>see more)
Personal motto:
"The most powerful force in the universe is compound interest." - Albert Einstein (probably)
Mike Soray
(aka Michał Sobieraj)
Write us...
Ciechanów, Polska
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