Ukiyo-Japan » Art Island Naoshima – A Lesson in Transforming an Unremarkable Industrial Village into a World-Class Phenomenon

An Extraordinary Place and a Lesson in Building the Future

Naoshima, often referred to as the "Art Island," is an extraordinary place not only on the map of Japan but also of the entire world. It has gained international fame for its unique combination of art, architecture, and nature. This small island, located in the Seto Inland Sea, has transformed into a true cultural center, attracting art lovers from all over the world.

It is perhaps the only place in the world where one can be surprised so many times in a single day on such a small island. We are greeted by Yayoi Kusama's famous red pumpkin made of surreal material, covered with her characteristic polka dots, which has become a symbol of Naoshima. Next, we venture into bizarre underground spaces where we can view monumental paintings by Claude Monet – but in such a way that they look and represent something entirely different depending on the time of day and weather. Then we explore the strangest village in the world – Honmura, where we can peek into the local houses and apartments – turned upside down, filled with neon lights and chaotic light installations designed to evoke existential fears, or installations with extraordinary glass stairs leading to an underground cave, creating a mystical and meditative experience.

Naoshima also serves as a lesson on how a small, unremarkable, and industrial island with an aging population can be transformed into an international symbol of contemporary art. Naoshima could have ended up like many other islands with such a history – as a dying, uninteresting village with no future other than waiting to become another genkai shuraku, and then a ghost village. But no, the initiative of Soichiro Fukutake and the Benesse Corporation, supported by the vision of architect Tadao Ando, transformed this ordinary island into a place recognized and discussed worldwide, an international symbol of contemporary art and a global phenomenon.

Thanks to investments in culture and art, Naoshima has become an inspiration for other regions, showing that sustainable development and revitalization can go hand in hand with the promotion of artistic creativity. This transformation is a lesson on how to turn bleak prospects into a space full of inspiration and innovation.

What is Naoshima Island?

Geographical Location

Naoshima (直島) is a picturesque island located in the Seto Inland Sea, in Kagawa Prefecture, southwestern Japan. This small island, with an area of about 8 km², lies in the central part of the Setouchi archipelago, being one of the numerous gems of this scenic part of Japan.

Island Name

The name Naoshima is written using two kanji characters: 直 (nao), meaning "straight" or "direct," and 島 (shima), meaning "island." Together, they form a name that can be interpreted as "straight island," which may refer to the simplicity and natural beauty of this place.

Island Description

Naoshima is characterized by a diverse landscape, dominated by hilly terrains covered with dense forests and picturesque coastlines with sandy beaches and rocky cliffs. The island is home to rich flora and fauna. In the forests, one can encounter wild boars, various bird species, and colorful insects, including impressive beetles and arachnids. The surrounding marine waters are rich in various species of fish and other marine creatures, making Naoshima an attractive place for nature enthusiasts as well.

People and Settlements

Naoshima is inhabited by about 3,300 people, most of whom are fishermen and workers in local industries, such as the Mitsubishi Materials factory. The island has several small, traditional villages where life proceeds at a peaceful pace, harmonizing with the natural surroundings. In recent decades, thanks to the development of artistic projects, Naoshima has also attracted artists, curators, and tourists from around the world who come to experience the unique atmosphere of this island.

Island History

Ancient History

For centuries, the island was inhabited by fishermen and farmers who relied on the abundant natural resources of the surrounding seas. Archaeological finds indicate human presence on the island as early as the Jomon period (approximately 14,000–300 BCE). During the Edo period (1603–1868), Naoshima was one of many strategic trading points in the Seto Inland Sea, known for its salt production and fishing.

Recent History: Industrial Roots – Copper Refinery

In the early 20th century, Naoshima experienced an industrial transformation. In 1917, the Mitsubishi Materials company established a copper refinery on the island, which became one of the main sources of employment for local residents. For decades, the factory was a key element of the island's economy, contributing to population growth and urbanization. Unfortunately, industrial development also had negative environmental impacts, which eventually became a significant problem for Naoshima.

Transformation into the "Art Island"

Initiative of Soichiro Fukutake and Benesse Corporation

A breakthrough moment in Naoshima's history occurred in the 1980s when Soichiro Fukutake, chairman of Benesse Corporation, inspired by the vision of integrating art with daily life, decided to transform the island into a center of contemporary art. In 1985, Fukutake met with the island's then-mayor, Chikatsugu Miyake, and they began to implement an ambitious plan to make Naoshima a place where art, nature, and the community could coexist harmoniously.

Collaboration with Tadao Ando

A key element of this transformation's success was the collaboration with renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando. His unique approach to architecture, characterized by minimalism and harmonious integration of buildings with the surrounding landscape, perfectly aligned with Fukutake's vision. Ando's first project on Naoshima was the Benesse House Museum, opened in 1992, which quickly became a symbol of the island's new era.

Development of Artistic Projects Over the Years

Over the years, Naoshima has become home to many significant artistic and architectural projects. In 2004, Chichu Art Museum was opened, another work by Ando that uniquely integrates art with natural light and space. In 2010, Lee Ufan Museum, dedicated to the work of Korean artist Lee Ufan, also designed by Ando, was established.

Naoshima has also been a key location for the Setouchi Triennale, an international art festival held every three years, attracting artists from around the world. Thanks to these initiatives, the island has become a living museum, where each visit offers new experiences and discoveries of not only artworks but also the history and nature of this extraordinary place.

Museums on Naoshima

There are five museums/galleries on Naoshima. These are:

Benesse House Museum
Chichu Art Museum
Lee Ufan Museum
Ando Museum
Naoshima Bath "I Love Yu"

Additionally, the island offers various artistic projects, such as the Art House Project, which transforms traditional houses into unique art installations.

Benesse House Museum

Benesse House Museum, opened in 1992, is a unique combination of a contemporary art museum and a hotel. Designed by the famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando, the museum symbolizes Naoshima's transformation into the "Art Island." It serves as the central point for all artistic projects on the island by the Benesse Corporation. Its uniqueness lies in allowing guests to have close contact with art, both in the exhibition spaces and in the hotel rooms integrated with the museum.

Benesse House Museum consists of several buildings, including Museum, Oval, Park, and Beach, each offering different artistic experiences and sea views. Ando's characteristic concrete structures harmoniously blend into the island's natural surroundings. The museum houses a rich collection of contemporary art, including works by artists such as David Hockney, Andy Warhol, Bruce Nauman, and Richard Long. Thanks to the thoughtful layout and strategically placed windows, the museum's interiors are filled with natural light, enhancing the aesthetic experience. Ticket prices for Benesse House Museum start at approximately 1,030 yen (about 40 PLN) per adult.

Chichu Art Museum

Chichu Art Museum, opened in 2004, is another masterpiece designed by Tadao Ando. The museum was built with the concept of integrating art with natural light and space. The word "chichu" means "in the ground," referring to the museum's characteristic feature – most of its structure is hidden beneath the earth's surface. This approach allows for minimal impact on the island's landscape while creating unique conditions for displaying art.

Chichu Art Museum is known for its extraordinary way of presenting art, where natural light plays a crucial role. The museum consists of several galleries, each designed specifically to exhibit the works of a particular artist. The museum's collection includes works by Claude Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria. The most famous are Monet's large canvases from the "Water Lilies" series, displayed in a space illuminated solely by natural light, changing their appearance depending on the time of day and weather conditions. Admission to Chichu Art Museum costs about 2,060 yen (about 80 PLN) per adult.

Lee Ufan Museum

Lee Ufan Museum, opened in 2010, is dedicated to the work of Korean artist Lee Ufan, known for his minimalist style and philosophical approach to art. The museum was designed by renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando, whose austere aesthetic perfectly complements Ufan's works.

The museum is located on the edge of the island, integrated into the natural landscape, highlighting the connection between art and nature. The building consists of a series of exhibition spaces that guide visitors through different stages of Ufan's work. Exhibits include both paintings and sculptures characterized by the use of simple forms and raw materials. Ticket prices for Lee Ufan Museum are approximately 1,030 yen (about 40 PLN) per adult.

Ando Museum

Ando Museum, opened in 2013, is a tribute to the work of Tadao Ando, who played a key role in Naoshima's transformation. The museum is housed in a traditional Japanese house from the Edo period, which was restored and transformed by Ando himself.

The museum's interior is a blend of modernity and tradition, where concrete structures contrast with wooden elements of the original construction. Exhibits in the Ando Museum present various architectural projects by Ando, including plans, models, and photographs of his most important works. Admission costs about 510 yen (about 20 PLN) per adult.

Naoshima Bath "I Love Yu"

Naoshima Bath "I Love Yu," opened in 2009, is a unique combination of a traditional Japanese bath (sento) and an art installation. The project was created by artist Shinro Ohtake, whose eclectic style and creative approach to space give this place its distinctive character.

The bath "I Love Yu" is a colorful and dynamic place where visitors can not only relax in traditional hot baths but also admire artworks, including mosaics, sculptures, and light installations. Admission costs about 660 yen (about 25 PLN) per adult.

Art House Project

The Art House Project is a unique artistic endeavor on Naoshima that transforms abandoned houses and buildings in the small town of Honmura into interactive art installations. Initiated in 1998, this project is another example of collaboration between artists and the local community, aimed at revitalizing and preserving the island's cultural heritage.

The Art House Project includes several different locations, each transformed by a different artist. Each house is unique and represents various approaches to integrating art with living spaces. Artists involved in the project often draw inspiration from the history, architecture, and local community, creating works that not only aesthetically enrich the space but also carry a deeper message.

Examples

Minamidera (南寺)

Designed by Tadao Ando and James Turrell, Minamidera is a building that combines minimalist architecture with experimental use of light and darkness. Inside is the installation "Backside of the Moon," which engages the viewer's senses in an unprecedented way.

Go'o Shrine (護王神社)

Reconstructed and expanded by Hiroshi Sugimoto, Go'o Shrine combines traditional shrine architecture with modern elements such as glass stairs leading to an underground cave, creating a mystical and meditative space.

Haisha (はいしゃ)

Created by Shinro Ohtake, Haisha is a former dentist's house transformed into a colorful and eclectic installation, full of neon lights and unexpected artistic elements, creating a surreal experience.

The Art House Project is not only a tourist attraction but also an example of successful urban space revitalization through art. The project contributes to the local community's revival by engaging residents in the creative process and attracting tourists from around the world. Thanks to this, Honmura becomes a living museum where tradition meets modernity, and art becomes an integral part of daily life.

Exhibits and Displays

"Pumpkin" / Kabocha / かぼちゃ

One of the most recognizable works on Naoshima is the "Pumpkin" installation by Yayoi Kusama. This gigantic, yellow and black pumpkin, covered with Kusama's characteristic polka dots, stands at the end of a pier, creating a strong contrast with the blue sea and sky. Made of fiberglass, the pumpkin is not only impressive in size but also in the way it reflects light, making it look alive and pulsating with energy.

The artistic significance of "Pumpkin" is tied to Kusama's "obsession" with dots and repetitive patterns, which are expressions of her personal struggles with mental illness. The pumpkin symbolizes fertility, warmth, and strength, and its location on the island emphasizes the connection between art and nature. This installation has become a symbol of Naoshima, attracting tourists from all over the world and being one of the most recognizable works by the artist.

"100 Live and Die" / 100 Sei to Shi / 100 生と死

"100 Live and Die" is a neon installation by Bruce Nauman, located in the Benesse House Museum. It consists of flashing phrases such as "CRY AND LIVE" and "THINK AND DIE" that alternate in bright neon colors. The installation is housed in a dark room, which enhances the lighting effect and makes the phrases appear almost hypnotic.

The artistic significance of this installation lies in its reflection on the duality of life and death, emotions and thoughts. Through his work, Nauman encourages the viewer to engage in deep introspection and confront the fundamental aspects of human existence. "100 Live and Die" exemplifies how art can provoke existential confrontation and evoke strong emotions.

Exhibits at Chichu Art Museum

Monet’s Installations

At Chichu Art Museum, visitors can admire several large canvases by Claude Monet from the "Water Lilies" series. These large-scale paintings are displayed in a specially designed gallery that uses natural light streaming through roof openings. The effect is incredibly dynamic - the paintings change depending on the time of day and weather, giving them a vibrant and ever-changing character.

Monet, a master of Impressionism, depicts subtle plays of light and shadow on the surface of the water lily pond in his works. The placement of these paintings in Chichu Art Museum, with its minimalist architecture and use of natural lighting, highlights their beauty and delicacy while creating a meditative space for contemplation.

Installations by James Turrell and Walter De Maria

James Turrell, known for his experiments with light and space, has several installations at Chichu Art Museum, including "Open Sky." In this work, viewers lie on stone benches and look up at the sky through an opening in the ceiling, giving the impression of connection with infinity. This installation changes with the weather and time of day, offering unique experiences during each visit.

Walter De Maria, on the other hand, presents his monumental work "Time/Timeless/No Time," which consists of a huge granite sphere and several gold columns placed in a white, illuminated room. This minimalist composition aims to make the viewer reflect on the concepts of time and space, creating a sense of silence and eternity.

Teshima Art Museum

Teshima Art Museum, although located on the neighboring island of Teshima, is part of the same artistic ecosystem as Naoshima. The installation "Matrix" by Rei Naito, located in the museum, is one of the most extraordinary on the island. The museum, designed by Ryue Nishizawa, resembles a huge, flattened dome with a single opening in the roof that lets in light.

Inside the "Matrix" installation, visitors can observe water droplets slowly moving across the floor, merging and separating in continuous, calm motion. This subtle and meditative experience is intended to make the viewer reflect on nature and its infinite variability. This installation symbolizes the harmony between art and nature, where each element has its place in the larger order of the world.

Other Attractions and Events

Setouchi Triennale

Setouchi Triennale is an international art festival held every three years on the islands of the Seto Inland Sea, including Naoshima. The festival, initiated in 2010, aims to promote contemporary art and revitalize the region, which has struggled with demographic issues such as aging populations and depopulation.

Setouchi Triennale attracts artists from around the world who create and present their works in various locations on the islands, including abandoned buildings, temples, schools, and open spaces. The festival consists of three sessions: spring, summer, and autumn, allowing visitors to experience art in different seasons and see how the landscape changes throughout the year.

Setouchi Triennale has become one of the most important art events in Japan, attracting thousands of tourists and art enthusiasts from all over the world. Thanks to this festival, Naoshima and other islands in the Seto Inland Sea have gained international renown as centers of contemporary art.

A Thought-Provoking Question to Conclude

I wonder... We have quite a few places in Poland with picturesque landscapes but completely unremarkable infrastructure, bringing no financial or cultural benefits. Is transforming such a place into something like Naoshima beyond Poland's capabilities?

What would be the costs if the land (ownership of the land) is already held by the state? Pouring some concrete and erecting a few buildings, constructing some unusual structures. These are not large sums, even for county budgets, let alone provincial ones. Depending on the scale, it could be accomplished within a few or several million PLN. It's a large amount for an individual, but not for organizations or the state.

Lack of ideas? I am convinced that in a country as large as Poland, there are artists and architects with numerous extraordinary ideas on how to utilize such space and construction opportunities. That we can't afford these artists? That's a joke; they don't earn that much, even the more famous ones (and they don't have to be the most renowned ones). Moreover, the realization of such a project would be a dream come true and a lifetime opportunity for many artists.

So... if we have such places in Poland, with interesting landscapes, infrastructurally underdeveloped, bringing nothing but losses... And – since the cost of such a project wouldn't constitute a significant percentage of the annual regional budget and could turn a loss-making, insignificant piece of land into something that would set in motion the machine of culture/tourism/business, then – why isn't it being done?...

Art Island Naoshima – A Lesson in Transforming an Unremarkable Industrial Village into a World-Class Phenomenon