A Remote Island, A Hellish Valley

The red earth steams, and the stifling air is heavy with the smell of sulfur. Billowing clouds of vapor, like vengeful onryō spirits, rise into the steel-gray light of a distant, pale sun. Around are deep, hissing crevices, where boiling water bubbles, and the reddish-yellow rocks seem to burn with the heat emanating from the earth's core. What did the rōnin of early Edo times seek here? What questions were they trying to answer in this hostile, otherworldly landscape? Were they searching for death? A masterless samurai, one who lacked the courage to commit seppuku in the moment of disgrace, now roams Edo-period Japan as a rōnin – without respect, without honor, without a future. What does he seek in the hellish valley of Noboribetsu? Could it be that among the wild oni demons in this terrifying place on the distant island of Hokkaido, known as Jigoku Dani (地獄谷 – "Hell Valley"), one might find not death, but… redemption?

Hokkaido (formerly called Ezo) seemed like the end of the world. The Japanese during the Sengoku and early Edo periods did not regard it as part of Japan but as "barbarian lands at the edge of the world." Even wilder than it is today, it was considered an unknown, dark territory inhabited by winter demons called oni and the mysterious Ainu people – whom some referred to as "shrimp people." And yet, it was precisely here, in the most hostile and astonishing region, Jigoku Dani – "Hell Valley" – that fallen samurai sought purification. According to legend, the valley was inhabited by oni, bloodthirsty demons. These beings with red faces, sharp fangs, and horns zealously guarded their territory. Beyond them, even mightier beings awaited: the Yukijin, protective demons of volcanic heat. It was believed that travelers with pure intentions and the courage to face them would experience spiritual cleansing. Those who hesitated – vanished without a trace. But to even reach this test, the brave had to spend months or years in the fiery, snowy hell of Jigoku Dani, enduring a harsh, merciless regimen of meditation and combat training for both spirit and body.

Today, Jigoku Dani is one of the most significant tourist destinations on Hokkaido. Modern travelers, no longer tormented by malicious demons, still experience the raw power of nature in the form of hot springs and bubbling lakes. The steaming therapeutic waters, which once bore witness to the spiritual struggles of samurai, now offer relaxation in elegant onsen such as Dai-ichi Takimotokan. Strolling along the wooden walkways, visitors can admire this raw volcanic scenery, while festivals like the Demon Fireworks Festival bring oni legends to life, spectacularly blending the past with the present. Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani is a place where history, nature, and culture merge into an otherworldly blend of hellish landscapes and pleasures for the body and soul. Let’s delve into the history of Noboribetsu’s Hell Valley on Hokkaido!

First, Let’s Understand the Names

Jigoku Dani (地獄谷)

The name Jigoku Dani translates as "Hell Valley." It consists of two kanji:

• 地獄 (jigoku) – meaning "hell" or "the land of the dead." This term, rooted in Buddhism and Japanese culture, refers to a place where sinners are punished after death (literally "earth" + "punishment" = a prison in or under the earth as punishment).
• 谷 (dani) – meaning "valley" or "gorge."

Together, the name creates an image of a place with hellish landscapes – full of steaming fumaroles, bubbling lakes, and the heat emanating from the earth. The valley’s harsh, unearthly terrain perfectly matches this name, capturing its essence and atmosphere. In Japan, there are several places called Jigoku Dani (the most famous being three), with the largest located in Noboribetsu on Hokkaido. Others include sites on Kyushu.

Noboribetsu (登別)

The name Noboribetsu originates from the language of the Ainu, the indigenous people of Hokkaido, who called this area nupur-pet.

• Nupur – meaning "dark" or "murky."
• Pet – meaning "river."

In Japanese, the name was rendered in kanji as 登別, which phonetically (but not semantically) reflects the Ainu pronunciation:

• 登 (noboru) – "to ascend" or "to climb."
• 別 (betsu) – "other" or "separate."

What is This Place?

Location

The "Hell Valley" of Noboribetsu is located in the southwestern part of Hokkaido, within the boundaries of Shikotsu-Toya National Park, 112 km south of Sapporo. The valley is the central feature of the Noboribetsu Onsen region, which lies near Mount Hiyori (日和山), the source of the area’s intense geothermal activity. This place is one of the most distinctive landmarks on the map of Hokkaido (and the world), thanks to its unique geology and stark volcanic landscape.

Geology

Jigoku Dani is a 24-hectare geothermal crater formed approximately 20,000 years ago by the eruption of Mount Kuttara. The valley is full of fumaroles, hot springs, and bubbling mud pools, releasing about 10,000 tons of thermal water daily, with varying chemical compositions. This water, rich in sulfur, iron, radon, and other minerals, supplies the onsen (traditional Japanese geothermal baths) in the surrounding area.

The volcanic Oyunuma Lake, located in the valley, has a surface temperature of about 50°C, while smaller mud pools can be even hotter. The valley is characterized by yellow-red rocks and steam vents that give it its hellish appearance.

One of the most spectacular geological features of the valley is the Oyunumagawa River, which flows from Oyunuma Lake. This hot river, with a temperature of about 40°C, steams along its length, creating a scene that seems otherworldly. The valley is situated in a seismically active zone, and volcanic processes continue to shape its landscape and the composition of its thermal waters.

Flora and Fauna

Despite the harsh geothermal conditions, the surroundings of Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani are home to diverse flora and fauna. The higher slopes of the hills surrounding the valley are covered with dense deciduous forests, which in autumn blaze with vibrant shades of red, orange, and gold, creating a stunning contrast to the steaming valley below.

The forest features trees such as oaks, beeches, and Japanese maples, typical of Hokkaido. In the lower areas, grasses and plants adapted to high temperatures and sulfuric soil thrive, making the region globally unique.

As for wildlife, the valley and its surroundings are inhabited by animals typical of Hokkaido, such as foxes (including the local red foxes), Japanese deer, and birds of prey like buzzards and eagles. The forests also house Hokkaido brown bears, icons of the island’s wildlife.

Around the hot springs, thermophilic microorganisms, such as bacteria capable of surviving in extreme conditions, flourish. These microorganisms are the subject of scientific study, as they may provide insights into the evolution of life under harsh conditions, possibly even extraterrestrial environments.

The History of Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani

Antiquity and Pre-Japanese Times – The Ainu and Nupur-Petsu

Long ago, before Hokkaido became part of Japan, this land belonged to the Ainu – the indigenous people of the northern island. For the Ainu, every spring, river, and tree possessed a spirit, known as kamuy. The hot springs in Noboribetsu, which they called Nupur-Petsu – the "dark river" – were sacred to them. These waters, murky with sulfur and bubbling in deep crevices of the earth, were seen as a gift from the gods. The Ainu believed that their healing properties were bestowed by nature spirits to cure both the body and the soul.

In Ainu culture, hot springs served both practical and spiritual purposes. They were used for healing wounds, alleviating joint pain, and during purification rituals. One such ceremony was ipetamu, a thanksgiving ritual for the spirits of the springs, where the Ainu offered food and handcrafted items, believing this would bring health and harmony to their community. Nupur-Petsu was also a place where elders shared stories about spirits, demons, and legendary heroes with younger generations, creating an oral tradition that endured for centuries.

The Edo Era

During the Edo period (1603–1868), Hokkaido – then known as Ezo – was perceived by most Japanese as a distant, wild, and almost mythical land. Known for its harsh climate and unpredictable nature, it was rarely visited by people from central Japan, and its exploration was left to a few brave travelers and researchers. Tokunai Mogami, a cartographer and explorer sent by the Tokugawa shogunate, played a key role in uncovering this unknown land. In 1790, during his expeditions through the region, he detailed Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani in his work Ezo Soshi. Fascinating descriptions of bubbling springs and steaming fumaroles were compared with Buddhist depictions of hell, sparking interest in this land across Japan.
 

Mogami not only documented the region’s natural wonders but also highlighted the traditional use of hot springs by the Ainu. In his writings, he mentioned the indigenous people who used Nupur-Petsu for both medicinal and spiritual purposes, treating it as a bridge between the human world and the spirits of nature. His research piqued the curiosity of Edo-period intellectuals, who began to see Ezo as a potentially significant region for Japan, both in terms of natural resources and strategic location. Moreover, stories of dangerous samurai journeys to the "land of hell" circulated in literature of the time, making Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani a place of fame, though still nearly unreachable.

The Meiji Era

In the Meiji period, as Japan underwent rapid modernization, Noboribetsu began to emerge from the shadows of legend. Thanks to Mogami’s descriptions and growing interest in the Ezo region, early entrepreneurs began recognizing the potential of utilizing the hot springs as therapeutic destinations. During this time, Omi Hanbei Okada played a significant role, founding the first inn in the area in 1858. This was a groundbreaking event that made the region more accessible to travelers from Japan.

Another milestone came with the efforts of Kinzō Takimoto, whose involvement in the region’s development stemmed from a personal experience: his wife’s health improved significantly after bathing in the thermal waters of Noboribetsu. This soon led to Noboribetsu being recognized as one of Japan’s most important balneotherapy locations, attracting an increasing number of visitors seeking physical and spiritual rejuvenation.

The development of Noboribetsu during the Meiji period was part of a broader process of transforming Hokkaido from an isolated and wild region into a strategically significant part of the country. The modern use of hot springs, combined with legends of oni and the Ainu’s history, made this place unique on Japan’s map. Thanks to the combined efforts of explorers, local residents, and entrepreneurs, Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani began to transform from a "hellish land" into a renowned spa center, which today captivates visitors with its history and one-of-a-kind atmosphere.

Modern Times

Noboribetsu During the Russo-Japanese War

Between 1904 and 1905, during the Russo-Japanese War, Noboribetsu played an important role as a treatment center for wounded soldiers. The hot springs, known for their regenerative properties, were used to treat burns, wounds, and joint pain. During this time, numerous simple hospitals and sanatoriums were established, which later evolved into the onsen and hotels we know today.

The Development of Tourism After World War II

After World War II, Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani began attracting an increasing number of tourists, both from Japan and abroad. The valley was recognized as a key tourist destination on Hokkaido, and the development of infrastructure – such as wooden walkways, observation decks, and tourist centers – made it more accessible.

In the 1960s and 1970s, numerous luxury hotels and onsen, such as Daiichi Takimotokan and Park Hotel Miyabitei, were established, offering guests modern amenities combined with traditional Japanese baths. The development of festivals, such as the Demon Fireworks Festival and Jigoku Matsuri, fused ancient oni legends with modern cultural experiences, drawing thousands of visitors each year.

Burning Away One’s Sins – Samurai Honor in the “Valley of Hell”

During the civil wars of the Sengoku period (1467–1615), Japan was torn by constant conflicts among various daimyō, and samurai honor was often questioned in the face of lost battles, betrayals, and the downfall of feudal lords. Rōnin – samurai who had lost their masters – found themselves on the margins of society, stripped of honor and position. Many, unable to find a new master, embarked on solitary journeys in search of spiritual purification and a purpose that would allow them to regain their dignity. One of the places that attracted such lone warriors was the remote and wild land of Hokkaido, particularly Jigoku Dani – the "Valley of Hell" in Noboribetsu.

The journeys of rōnin seeking redemption led them through wild forests and rugged mountain peaks of Hokkaido, with the most determined eventually reaching Jigoku Dani. According to stories, they spent months there in solitude, meditating among the bubbling springs and steaming fumaroles. Each day, they practiced their swordsmanship, hand-to-hand combat, and resilience of body and mind in the extreme conditions of heat and suffocating sulfur gases, believing that this hellish environment would cleanse both spirit and body.

Bushidō (武士道), or the "Way of the Warrior," was not just an ethical code for samurai but also a spiritual path that required constant self-improvement (though, as we remember, the term Bushidō itself is relatively late, originating in the Edo period when actual samurai wars had ended). It was believed that the strength of the spirit was as important as combat skills, and the key to this balance lay in overcoming one’s weaknesses. Jigoku Dani, with its unearthly, harsh landscape, was seen as an ideal place for spiritual training. The hot springs symbolized the hell one had to endure to achieve enlightenment and renewal.

In the Edo period (1603–1868), as Japan entered an era of peace under Tokugawa rule, many samurai, no longer required to engage in wars, began to focus on spiritual and physical training. At that time, Jigoku Dani became a retreat for warriors seeking seclusion. Many legends remain of sword masters and hand-to-hand combat experts who disappeared into this inhospitable land for months or years, only to return – scarred and burned, but entirely transformed – strong, unshaken in will, and with steel-like muscles.

The Demons’ Abode

The Inhabitants of the Valley – Oni Demons

Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani has been associated with oni (鬼) demons for centuries. In Japanese folklore, oni symbolize both chaos and punishment. According to local tales, oni are the valley’s guardians, appearing as powerful and fearsome beings with red or blue bodies, sharp horns, and fangs that gleam ominously from afar. They were imagined as the embodiment of vengeful forces of nature, ensuring that no one disturbed the hellish harmony of this place.

It was believed that the oni of Noboribetsu differed from other demons in Japan—they were more intelligent, cunning, and not malicious but rather ruthless and unforgiving. They tolerated neither cowardice nor disrespect for nature. Legend has it that anyone who dared trespass into their territory had to face their wrath. However, oni also valued courage and resilience—those who could endure the trial of sulfurous heat and terror could expect forgiveness of their sins and spiritual purification.

Who Are the Yukijin?

Yukijin (湯鬼神) are different from oni. Their role is to guard the magical springs of Jigoku Dani. Unlike the oni, yukijin have an ambivalent nature. They are believed to be protectors of Noboribetsu’s thermal springs, acting as guardians and mediators between the human world and the hellish forces of nature. They are not inherently hostile to humans—their attitude is one of indifference. Often depicted as humanoid figures with flames swirling around their bodies, they symbolize their connection to volcanic heat. In local culture, yukijin not only protect the hot springs from pollution and disrespect but also ensure that the energy of the place remains balanced.

Another legend suggests that yukijin also guard human intentions. If someone enters the valley with a pure heart, the yukijin are said to guide them toward a path of purification and spiritual renewal. However, for those who come with impure thoughts or driven by greed, yukijin impose punishment, casting them into a scorching mist that leaves them lost in the labyrinth of fiery paths and swirling steam of Noboribetsu.

Enma – The King of Hell

The central figure in the beliefs surrounding Jigoku Dani is Enma (閻魔), also known as the King of Hell. In Buddhist tradition, Enma is the judge of souls, deciding the fate of the deceased—whether they will be sent to hell or given a chance at reincarnation. It was believed in Noboribetsu that the valley was one of the places on earth where Enma’s presence could be felt. The steaming fumaroles and bubbling mud lakes were said to be gateways to the infernal realms, with Enma himself overseeing them, judging anyone who ventured too close.

Local stories tell of rituals involving offerings to Enma, meant to ensure prosperity and protection from evil spirits. Noboribetsu is also home to a temple dedicated to Enma—Enma-dō (閻魔堂)—where pilgrims can pray for forgiveness and a better fate. During festivals such as Oni Hanabi (鬼花火, Demon Fireworks Festival), theatrical performances portray Enma as a stern yet fair ruler who commands the demons and decides the fate of human souls.

Other Local Legends and Tales

Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani is surrounded by many legends of yōkai, supernatural creatures often inhabiting remote areas. One tale tells of the kappa, water demons living in the Oyunumagawa River. These small, reptilian creatures, known for their pranks and love of cucumbers, were said to protect the river from those who tried to defile it. While kappa are “sighted” across Japan, the ones residing in the Hell Valley are said to be larger, stronger, and tinged with a reddish hue.

Another story speaks of Tsuchigumo, the earth spider that inhabited one of the valley’s caves. According to legend, Tsuchigumo was enormous, capable of dragging its victims into the valley’s hot mud to meet their end.

There are also tales of Hinoenma, a demonic seductress who appeared as a beautiful woman, luring travelers with promises of shelter in the inferno. Those who fell for her trap were consumed, dragged into the molten magma that devoured both their bodies and souls.

Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani in Modern Japan

A Walk Through Hell – The Scenic Paths of Jigoku Dani

Walking along the wooden walkways of Hell Valley in Hokkaido, visitors can feel the hot, humid air thick with the smell of sulfur. It rises from bubbling hot springs and crevices, where massive plumes of steam erupt. A stroll through the valley’s paths is a journey through an otherworldly landscape—red-yellow rocks, streams of hot water in milky white and turquoise hues, and deep craters from which the continuous hiss of boiling lava emanates. On the hilltops, fumaroles release steam, a reminder of the volcanic heat lurking beneath the surface. With every gust of wind comes an eerie sensation—is it nature, or are the spirits and demons watching the walkers?

Observation points like Taisho Jigoku offer breathtaking panoramas. Especially at night, when the valley is gently illuminated, it looks like a fragment of a dream—or rather a nightmare—with steam billowing under the moonlight.

Bathing in Onsens – Harmony of Body and Soul

The hot springs of Noboribetsu offer travelers not only relaxation but also unique health benefits. The onsen town surrounding the valley combines the tradition of thermal baths with modern comfort. Each onsen draws water from Jigoku Dani, where nature creates a mineral-rich concoction for visitors. The famous Dai-ichi Takimotokan offers as many as seven different types of hot baths—sulfur, iron, radon—each with distinct therapeutic properties. Imagine immersing yourself in a hot outdoor bath, surrounded by rising steam and the smell of sulfur. In winter, when snow blankets the surrounding hills, and the hot water contrasts with the icy air, bathing in an onsen becomes a near-spiritual experience.

For those who prefer more intimate settings, smaller onsens like Park Hotel Miyabitei offer a traditional Japanese experience—with tatami rooms, views of bamboo forests, and the serenity interrupted only by the gentle sound of hot water.

Natural Foot Baths at Oyunuma River

A 30-minute walk from the valley leads to the Oyunuma River Natural Foot Bath. This hot river, with water temperatures around 40°C, flows through the forest, creating a tranquil, almost magical scene. Here, visitors can sit on wooden bridges, dip their feet into the warm water, and feel the heat relax every muscle. Surrounding trees, which turn golden and crimson in autumn, create an idyllic atmosphere—all of this during the deep snowy winters unique to Hokkaido. For the brave, the river offers the chance to walk along its course, though the hot mud beneath the water poses a challenge even for the most determined travelers.

Festivals and Events: Demon Fireworks Festival and Jigoku Matsuri

Noboribetsu comes alive in summer during the Demon Fireworks Festival (鬼花火, Oni Hanabi). Imagine the night sky lit up by explosions of fireworks that seem to erupt straight from hell itself. In the background, the sounds of Japanese taiko drums echo, and in the firelight, yukijin—the guardians of the hot springs—appear. Their masks and costumes, glistening in the flames, create a spectacular show that seems to bring ancient legends to life. The festival is held weekly from June to August, attracting hundreds of thousands of tourists.

Another key event is the Noboribetsu Jigoku Matsuri (登別地獄祭り), or "Hell Festival," held in August. During this celebration, the gates of hell are “opened,” and Enma Daiō, the King of Hell, emerges in a parade surrounded by his retinue of demons. The town’s streets fill with demonic floats, residents dressed as spirits and demons, and theatrical performances reenacting legendary scenes from hell. It is a unique opportunity to experience the colorful folklore of the region.

Conclusion

Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani is an extreme place, though now tamed by civilization. Over the years, it has inspired both those seeking healing in its hot springs and those looking for a way to push their limits, train, and purify themselves. Its hellish landscape—billowing steam, bubbling lakes, and steam-spewing fumaroles—has left a profound mark on the Japanese imagination. In popular culture, Jigoku Dani has become almost an archetype of hell—a place where one confronts their weaknesses and struggles, facing demons both literal and internal. The valley appears in films, anime, and video games as the backdrop for dramatic tales of the battle between good and evil, as well as stories of inner transformation. Popular series like Yu Yu Hakusho and Nioh reference these hellish landscapes, creating visual homages and reimagined interpretations.

However, Jigoku Dani is more than just an inspiration for pop culture—it is also a reminder of our relationship with nature and our own fears. The sulfurous vapors and steaming springs become allegories for our daily struggles, while the oni demons embody the internal obstacles we must overcome to find balance. They possess both beauty and terror—just like us. Noboribetsu Jigoku Dani, with its raw landscape, rich history, and place in Japanese culture, teaches us that hell is not always a place of punishment—it can also be a space for renewal, redemption, and transformation.

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"Strong Japanese Women"

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    未開    ソビエライ

 An enthusiast of Asian culture with a deep appreciation for the diverse philosophies of the world. By education, a psychologist and philologist specializing in Korean studies. At heart, a programmer (primarily for Android) and a passionate technology enthusiast, as well as a practitioner of Zen and mono no aware. In moments of tranquility, adheres to a disciplined lifestyle, firmly believing that perseverance, continuous personal growth, and dedication to one's passions are the wisest paths in life. Author of the book "Strong Women of Japan" (>>see more)

Personal motto:

"The most powerful force in the universe is compound interest." - Albert Einstein (probably)

  Mike Soray

   (aka Michał Sobieraj)

未開    ソビエライ

 An enthusiast of Asian culture with a deep appreciation for the diverse philosophies of the world. By education, a psychologist and philologist specializing in Korean studies. At heart, a programmer (primarily for Android) and a passionate technology enthusiast, as well as a practitioner of Zen and mono no aware. In moments of tranquility, adheres to a disciplined lifestyle, firmly believing that perseverance, continuous personal growth, and dedication to one's passions are the wisest paths in life. Author of the book "Strong Women of Japan" (>>see more)

Personal motto:

"The most powerful force in the universe is compound interest." - Albert Einstein (probably)

Mike Soray

(aka Michał Sobieraj)

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